10-24-2004

I got up this morning at 730 am.   I wasn't sure that I was going to be able to get up, since I went to bed at 8 PM Ukrainian time (1 PM US time) after having not really slept since 7 AM the 30 or so hours before.   But I set my handy dandy alarm clock and it worked.   I had to wrap it in a towel cause the ticking was bothering me, but I still heard the ringing this morning.

So I get up, take a shower (plenty of hot water) and have to brush my teeth using the store bought water that I had gotten the previous day.   Weird thing about the showers here, you have to step up into them.  Its not so bad stepping up, but the step down is a killer, (I think its about 10 inches off the floor.     The bathroom comes with one kind of crappy towel, and no soap.  (You bring your own).   Mom -- plenty of toilet paper if you aren't picky about the ply!    Other interesting thing about this hotel room.   The floor is wooden and they have a tiny I'm going to say Persian rug next to my bed.   The bed itself is very small.  You can roll off it either side, so you don't want to be turning in your sleep!

I watched Russian TV last night.  Wound up listening / watching the equivalent of MTV here.   Its the only thing completely in English.   Watched some other shows, but they were in English, with Russian heavily dubbed so you can hardly hear the English. 

This morning, once I left the hotel room, my driver Sergei was waiting for me outside the hotel.  I was off to Berdichev.   Sergei asked me if I wanted to go to both Berdichev and Tetiyev.   Problem is they are not geographically close.   So I opted for Berdichev, which was the bigger of the two towns.     Off we went.

Turns out, I started talking to Sergei.   (lets face it talk is relative) he speaks about 20 words of English, and I speak exactly 4 words of Russian.   Mainly he answers yes when I ask a question and I answer Yes when he asks me a question.   Neither of us seem to understand much of what the other is saying, but it seems we get the gist of our intent.

On the way to Berdivch, Sergei asks me if I want to see Babi Yar.   Yes!  absolutely, how far is it?   It was about 10 mins off the track.   So we go to Babi Yar.   I have pictures, but I cant figure out yet how to send them, so here is a description.   There is a massive monument, with an inscription in both Russian and Hebrew (but not English).  Lots of fresh flowers laying around.   Other than that it is a very large grassy ravine.    I was looking to see if any skeletons were poking up, but I didn't see any.   They say that there are still thousands of bodies buried there and supposedly they go several yards deep.   You will see from the pictures.   Also, supposedly the blood continued to seep for several years after the event.

So after the Babi Yar viewing, we hop back in the car and drive to Berdichev.   And the adventure continues.   There are police "stations"  which really means a handful of cops every 20 or so miles.   These are nothing more than extortion stands where the police randomly select cars to be pulled over for "traffic violations".   Sergei slowed down from the approximately 120 kilometers he was driving to about 10 kilometers over the 20 yards or so, then speeds right back up to 120 kilometers.   The interstate was actually a great road for about the first 40 miles or so, than it was paved, but not quite as smooth.

Once we left the extremely modern Kiev, we entered into another world.   Ukraine seems to still be in the 1800's.   I cant say 1900's cause they had cars then!   There are villages all along the interstate.   Do you know that you cant turn off the interstate cause these villages don't even have roads!   I swear to God that there were horse and buggies be driven by villagers and no, these aren't the Amish.    Ok, so we're driving along for about an hour and Sergei turns to me and says you want to eat or use the water closet?   I say, soon, not right now.   He asks again, I say, how bout a few minutes,  on the third try I say YES.   Apparently, that's the right answer.  

For those of you following on a map, we ate lunch at a place called Xomitor?   You will love this story!  We are about to turn off the road.   There is a big sign (in Russian) road closed... and a gate across the road.   No Problem!  Sergei goes around the gate.    This road is being built.   They have poured concrete and the concrete lip is about 9 inches higher than the road.   There is a little section with a mud lip.  Sergei pulls up on the mud lip and drives on the new road, right past the construction crew and vehicle.. for about 500 yards and then turns into the modern looking restaurant.   I'd compare it with Howard Johnsons.   Cool restaurant, clean and lots of friendly staff.   They even have menus in English.  I order Chicken Kiev.   For those of you that don't know, (including me) Chicken Kiev is essentially a breaded chicken that looks like a baked potato.   Luckily, when you cut it open, inside is nothing but chicken!  (you know I love plain food!).   They serve
d a roll, without butter.  These people don't ever use butter.   I asked for butter for my roll, and out comes another roll, this time with butter on it.

On with the trip.    We are now on our way to Berdichev.   Berdichev is a big place.  The reason I am going here is cause my grandmother & grandfather came from here.  Where they lived I have no idea.  But thought it'd be cool to look around.   Sergei proceeds to take me to a huge cathedral that has been here for 300 years and says "this is Berdichev".    Well I am not happy, since I did not come to Berdichev to see a church.  (No offense guys!).   Anyhow, I play tourist and get out to take a picture.   Good thing too!   We wander around for about 15 minutes, try to get in, but its closed (thank god).   Anyhow, now I ask Sergei, how about we check out a synagogue.  (I bet you didn't believe that one Mom!)   Now you guys know I am about as atheist as a Jew can be but anyhow....   Sergei asks the information clerk at the Cathedral.   As I am rolling my eyes and not counting on this likely to work, a girl pipes up I know where one is and she is speaking English!  

Ok, now I have pictures of this girl.   She is very cute (22 years old).... young enough to be my daughter so get those ideas out of your head. Blonde hair blue eyes, definitely my type.   She and I hit it off right away.   She went to school (both music school and painting school) here at the cathedral, ten years ago.   There is a museum that is a part of this complex.   In the museum they have a large number of exhibits showing a history of Berdichev.   I now know everything you might ever want to know about Berdichev.   By the way, almost nothing about Jews in Berdichev.   However, as we are walking out of the museum, the museum director tells me that Berdichev was about 95% Jewish before World War II.   Now, there are less than 1% Jews.   Berdichev has about 300,000 people in it (to give you an idea).   Guess where they all went?

Well after the museum, we go on a synagogue hunt.   You might want to know there were over 20 synagogues in Berdichev pre 1941.   Now....  well you figure it out.   Anyhow, the first synagogue was closed.   No problem,  we go directly to another.   And Its open!  

Mom you should be sitting down for this.   I go in, and we me a bunch of people, including three boys (18-20) studying for what??  not sure, Yeshiva?  Anyhow, they have a torah closet and want to know if I want to pray with tefillin.   As you might have guessed, I have no idea how to even put these things on.   Well in about five minutes, they turn me into an orthodox Jew, dressed for the occasion.   I read the torah prayers,(with their help) and we take pictures in front of the torahs and the synagogue.   I am sure your ancestors were proud of me....  and I humored the crowd.   So now, we are off to visit a Jewish graveyard.     And yes I have pictures too.   I certainly don't know if I saw any relatives buried but I tried.   Anyhow this big shot rabbi has a massive edifice complex honoring his memory.   You are supposed to write things that you want to happen and put in (with money) by some candles.   I couldn't get into that at all, somehow, I didn't think we were supposed t
o "canonize" dead Jewish rabbis?   Well what do I know about religion.

Anyhow, quite a day.   This girl followed us around all day.  I have her name, address and phone number, in case I decide I want a Ukrainian au pair.   Or if Joe's doesn't work out... Joe she is a cutie.....   Kim might get mad at you.   Her English is pretty damn good.   (cant you tell I'm not religious!)

So we drive back to Kiev.

I forgot to tell you, before we left, I switched from the hotel I was at to this gorgeous apartment.   This apartment is unbelievable $50 per night ... includes a microwave, stove, refrigerator, washing machine, VCR and satellite TV.   and has a loft with the bed upstairs.

So I am going to this new apartment for tonight and tomorrow.

My appointment at the NAC is 2:30 PM and Vlad said I will be successful.  We shall see. I believe it when I see it.   Vlad and Sveta swear I will be home in 3 weeks.  Don't make Thanksgiving reservations yet.  Tonight I ate with Leesa & Cy and TGIF.  I had Jack Daniels chicken and Oreo sandwich ice cream just tasted exactly like home, but no free refills on coke.

What else can I say.   Having fun, no kid(s) yet, tomorrow big day.  See ya!